Alfama is not perfect. There have been times when I’ve found myself eating less than stellar specials, which for the price is pretty inexcusable. But the great list of Portuguese wines and the perfect execution of a number of standard dishes continue to draw me back here, as does the friendly management and good service. And it offers by far the best Portuguese food I’ve had in New York.

The classic dishes, like the bacalhau and mariscada, are good bets for entrees, and the tastiest – and most dramatic – way to start the meal is definitely with the chouriço flambéed tableside in aguardente. I rarely have room for dessert after a meal at Alfama, but, when I do, the pillowy meringue with fruit, called farófias de nata, is definitely the way to go.