The Fiesta Grill, across the street from the Bel Air Mall (Bel Air is some 20 mi north of Baltimore off of I-95), is a surprise watiing for anyone who enjoys finding hidden-away fine dining. The menu is Central American, the cook staff El Salvadoran, the owner/chef an American who spent some ten years cooking and collecting recipes and learning throughout the Central Americas.

The location is a non-descript strip shopping center; next door is a Mexican and Central American Spanish foods store; on the other side a wireless phone store, next door to that a too-fancy ($$) deli.

Fiesta’s prices are very in keeping with the sparse decor; nothing much runs over $11-$12, most dishes averaging $7-$9. All dishes are prepared fresh; even the tortilla chips are fried up just for your order; the salsa, mild or quite hot, has been pre-made and building flavor—-I’d recommend mixing half and half, or ask for a bit of each.

Favorite dish: Crab quesadilla. Two flat, fresh flour tortillas, about 10-in across, sandwiching asiago cheese, strips of marinated onion and poblano chiles, and your chosen level of spiciness. Crab is the Maryland signature dish, and this has to be a dish tailored to this area. Outstanding, you’ll wonder why you always get crabs steamed with Old Bay only. There is enough to share or bring home, as my son did to introduce me to this place.

Others: Any of the flautas; the “drowned” burritos (chicken, beef, or pork; in cheesy sauce; rice, beans)

There are few decorations as of yet, simple chairs and tables, two televisions (one with American fare, other usually playing some soccer game), and steady clientele and very friendly service. Those flavors and prices are, truly, a wonderful find.

Get there now (March 2009) before everyone finds and and they’re forced to add upscale decor, englarge, and…who knows what. The other “southern” restaurant of note in the area is the family friendly La Tolteca; Fiesta Grill’s food is two notches better.