This Indian restaurant reminds me of many wonderful meals enjoyed in the subcontinent — in private homes and in better restaurants in Lahore, Peshawar, Islamabad, Rawalpindi, Karachi, and other cities of the subcontinent. The notion that “Indian food” = “curry” = “intolerably hot with chili pepper” is broken at this restaurant.
Two couples went on our first visit (October 26, 2007). We ordered a wide range of dishes (14 total) to survey the menu. Our total cost plus tip was $103. We were most favorably impressed and have scheduled 2 further visits with larger dinner groups over the next 3 weeks.
The owner also operates a wholesale food store, and the freshness of ingredients that he supplies to his own kitchen showed in these preparations.
If there was a “missing” spice in any of the 14 dishes that we tried, it would be the annoyingly excess pepper that many people have come to associate with Indian cuisine. Also, here, the heating of spices in oil until they become “fragrant” is practiced without the slightest hint of “scorching” — another nuance of finer crafting of a meal. We asked our server to prepare our dishes to a level of spiciness that would be “typical to an inland city such as Delhi”. We were rewarded with a vindaloo that kissed the palate with a sensuous and complex blend of many flavors — while maintaining a Scoville index of only a fraction of that which I associate with most steaks that are delivered to the tables of local restaurants.
The naans were delightfully textured with a balance of pliability and flakiness. While I found the garlic naan slightly bitter, it was still quite acceptable, and the Peshawari Naan was far beyond “just good”. It invited the diner to revel in the combined sweetness of the raisins and the creamy bouquet of the pistachios and, perhaps, to ignore the other dishes and make a meal of this enticing bread.
We resisted that temptation and noted a similar high spot in the mint-coriander sambal — no bitterness or raw flavor or coarse texture — just complex and pleasant flavor. The mixed vegetable samosas provided surprisingly bright flavors (more so than the meat samosa) with pastry that was delivered to the table at its peak of perfection. These samosas invite immediate attention, as the pastry could condense steam and become too moist upon standing. The mixed vegetables in the various samosas, pakoras, and Malai Kofta each had differing textures and flavor combinations. If they came from the same source, the chef differentiated them adroitly on their way through preparation.
The Malai Kofta was magnificent: crisply fried vegetable balls in a creamy sauce that was suave and creamy and bursting with as much complex flavor as I could desire. Our group agreed that this was a “favorite”.
The Baghare Baingam (small, whole eggplants in a chunkier sauce) included fresh curry leaves to highlight an already interesting sauce. We had asked for this dish to let the black mustard, rather than the chili, dominate. It was rich in aroma and texture without being oily.
The Chicken Sag Wali gave us a smooth spinach sauce without any toothiness or raw flavor or overcooked flavor.
We had asked for our Chicken Vindaloo to be our hottest dish, but even it turned out to be crafted as a complex ensemble of subtle flavors rather than as a “hot” dish.
The Basmati Rice that accompanied these entrees had a touch of cumin and a light oil parching that reminded me of the flavor that I used to enjoy with a family from Mumbai — “watched closely and just parched, not toasted or browned” (007 surely would have approved). The finish on this rice was “al dente” with nary a split end yet every grain completely cooked — perfect timing in the steamer.
One of our party favored quite strongly the Paneer Pakoras over our other starters. The cheese was mild and yet dominated the preparation. I had expected the Fried Fish starter to be rolled in a mixture of gram flour and mirchi pepper and fried, but this dish also had a flavor that was subtle (and a pretty, bright red color).
During the meal and afterward, we became aware that the chef had used means other than an abundance of salt to bring these rich bouquets of flavor to our table, and we appreciate his skill. This meal had perhaps the lowest salt-content of any restaurant meal (of any ethnicity) that we have enjoyed in the past month. This, too, makes the chef eligible for kudos.
We wanted a rosewater-flavored rice pudding for dessert but settled for Kheer. The kheer was good and certainly held our interest even after such a bountiful feast.
This is one Indian restaurant that I can recommend for general diners. It is clearly Indian without some of the eccentricities that make less venturesome people hesitant to try Indian cuisine. One can hope for a long run by this restaurant in Rock Hill. It is a great addition to the options in this expanding Sunbelt city, and it compliments the house-flavors at other nearby Indian restaurants.
This writer has no financial, familial, fraternal, or other associations with Flavors of India Restaurant other than being a customer.
spartan99
03/24/2008This review is written by the owner of the restaurant for sure. Are you even aware that the restaurant is closing down? Next Saturday (03/29/08) is the last day. There was hardly any traffic to the restaurant and the food was always stale. Never liked it. I have been there multiple times ever since it opened and never had a good experience. The only reason I keep going back is because my colleagues at work ask me to go with them to the Indian restarurant and this is the only one in Rock Hill. Now we dont have a place to eat Indian food in Rock Hill. But thats OK. I would rather stay away from Indian food than eating bad Indian food.