I had high hopes for Pizzarelli’s since it overtook the old Mezzaluna spot on Eddy Dowling Highway in North Smithfield. Despite its huge fanbase in North Smithfield and Woonsocket, I was not that big of a fan of Mezzaluna and felt they had just serviceable pizza. But, it was still a good place to get a different kind of pizza (i.e, not Domino’s or Papa Gino’s or the absolutely awful Papa John’s), so I appreciated it being there.
Then, I saw Mezzaluna close down and Pizzarelli’s come into its space later on. I read about Luca and Michelle Gambardella’s roots (catering from the Bronx, where I was born and lived for 16 years!) and I couldnt believe my luck. I live minutes from the place on Eddy Dowling Highway and I truly feel that New York style pizza, when made correctly is some of the best pizza in the world.
I went to Pizzarelli’s about 3 weeks ago, near its opening day. The interior looks like a slightly less old and musty Mezzaluna with some nicer white linen tables and TV screens thrown in. Pretty minimalist, but I wasnt there for the decor. I grabbed a large cheese pizza to go, the ultimate test for the New York style pizza enthusiast. It did take a while to make(at least 30 minutes) but I was willing to wait if it was worth it.
When I got home and opened the box, the pizza smelled delicious but looked a tad bit off. It was obviously homemade (wasnt a frozen shell or preshaped), but it appeared to have more cheese on it than what I’m used to from NY style. No biggie, I figured, just a different technique possibly and pressed on.
The taste is reminiscent of NY style with not too tangy, faintly sweet and savory tomato sauce. Notes of garlic, oregano and it didnt taste like old canned sauce, which doesnt mean it wasnt. It just didnt taste like it. The mozzarella was good also with a good mellow savoriness, although the layer of topping itself was a bit thick, dialing down the sauce taste by a couple hairs too much. Which gets me to the most dissapointing part…. The slighty bland tasting and non-existant “bite” of the crust.
True New York style pizza crust to me means that incredible thin but not too thin, slightly chewy, slightly crispy crust bite that I know and love from good NYC pizza joints. The kind that immediately gives way to your teeth sinking thru with a pleasurable chewy crisp chomp. This was missing from my Pizzarelli pie. Even though I enjoyed the fact that they utilize corn flour to dust the bottom of the crust(always gives it a nice texture), the crust itself was lacking bite, chewy, bland-ish and definitely a bit too thick. I noticed that after 1 slice I was REALLY full and the dough was sitting in my stomach and not going anywhere. That to me is always a sign that the dough could use some more flattening. Or maybe, the oven needs to be hotter. I dont know, but something seems amiss.
Overall, I was dissapointed to see that Pizzarelli’s doesnt offer the true NYC style pizza I personally was looking for. Its definitely decent pizza and I am appreciative that the business is there (North Smithfield\Woonsocket needs fresh new business!)and happy to hear that others do find its flavors pleasing. I will definitely try at least one more time in the future with the pizza and an entree to see what else is offered. If anything changes I will update my rating to reflect that.
In the meantime, I will have to continue travelling to New York for the real deal NYC style experience.
annie
11/28/2008offering a “free topping” for the next visit is a little weak. i hope you tried to bargain it up to a free pizza, if just on principle alone.