Located on a cobble-stoned strip of charming restaurants, this darling Village newcomer fills a void with its Roman cuisine and spirited and tempermental service. The warm, inviting decor of exposed brick and candlelight set a romantic, low-key stage that is contrasted by the family-style bustle and outbursts of the service…On the refreshing up-side: no scripted, yuppy pretense here. For lovers of high-functioning efficiency though, service can be uneven here, at its worst it can either overly solicitous or slow and neglectful. Either way it’s reliably warm and cheerful. Don’t be surprised if you hear your servers spontaneously break into some verse of Italian pop music as they bring you your silverware or napkin.
Since it’s opening in late April, I have been here twice. Both times were enjoyable and while the experiences were not off-the-charts spectacular, in part because New York is such a hub of wonderful Italian food, the Roman specialities were excellent and very reminiscent of the rustic flavors that I’ve relished in Rome.
Since my Canon Powershot died on me on the night of my first visit, I can only illustrate the meals that were ordered at most recent dinner here.
The bucatini all’ Amatriciana that I ordered were on a par with the some of the best I’ve had in Rome. The bucatini were toothsome and richly coated in the delicious supple sauce made of succulent imported guanciale and tomatoes. A thick blanket of grated cacio on top is de rigeur and servers are more than happy, if not outright insistent (and right they are) to douse the pastas in delicious mildy aged Roman cheese as they serve the pasta dishes. Generous portions and all in all a plate of gut-busting goodness.
For my full review of Quinto Quarto, visit The Gotham Palate at
http://www.thegothampalate.com/2009/06/15/quinto-quarto/
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