Phong Dinh Restaurant
2643 San Gabriel Blvd
Rosemead, CA
(626) 307-8868
Cuisine:
Vietnamese, Wild Game, Chinese
January 26, 2009
A Flavorful Safari in North America
I attended a dinner sponsored by Menuism.com that allowed a tasting of 13 dishes. How great, right?
When I entered Phong Dinh, the first thing that struck me was that while the place was pretty full, there were more Caucasian than Asian diners. It’s kind of a red flag for me that I learned as a kid that if you want great Asian food, you have to eat where the Asians are eating.
I am not an expert on Vietnamese food, although at the few restaurants I’ve been to, the food was much lighter. Phong Dinh employs more Chinese cooking techniques and so the food tastes like Chinese food.
And while this restaurant has garnered the nick name “The Zoo” for all the exotic meats they serve, there are only a few dishes that I ate that I’d order again: the Whole Catfish and the curried boar and chicken. Mainly because everything that is stir-fried, while flavorful, was extremely greasy and overpowered by the taste of burnt oil. Some of my dinner companions enjoyed that flavor and you may too, but it did not seem intentional.
Another issue was the order in which the items were served. With 12 dishes of varying depths of flavors and heat, they would be best served to build flavors on the palate. There did not appear to be any strategy to the order of service as the gamey snake roll was served right after the delicate catfish, and might have been more enjoyable if served after a curry. And serving a simple chicken curry at the end of the meal, while delicious, was certainly anti-climactic.
The staff is very friendly and attentive and they even gave us gifts when leaving (pens). And there’s plenty of parking in back. So if you stay away from the stir-fried dishes (unless you like the smokey flavor) you’re sure to have a perfect meal.
Dishes I tried:
Alligator
It was very different from Cajun alligator I’ve eaten in it was dark and meaty instead of lobster-like. But tasty for sure.
Shrimp and Pig Ear Salad
This place sure knows how to present food. The salad was beautiful with the plate surrounded by shrimp chips, but the flavor was not exciting
Quail Eggs Wrapped in Shrimp Paste
They look so beautiful on the plate but boring is how I describe the shrimp paste flavor.
Sauteed Kangaroo with Black Pepper
This dish would be great if they didn’t flambĂ© it. I didn’t care for the burnt oil flavor, but the underlying seasonings were great and the meat was so tender.
Coconut Agar Agar
Light and colorful with creamy coconut flavor that’s got a crunch on the first bite. A nice way to end the meal.
Bok Choy and Garlic
Cooked to perfection with wonderful garlic flavor but swimming in oil and overpowered by burnt oil
Sauteed Boar
The creamy curry sauce with small slices of wild boar was the surprise of the night. Again not stir-fried and smokey so a winner for me.

Mo_menuism
01/26/2009I liked your specific remarks about the dishes, as to why you liked or didn’t like them. Thanks for the review! It was helpful and well-written.