I have waited several months to review the Red Derby. Since this new nightspot is just two blocks from my house, I have had the opportunity to visit a good number of times to get a feel of the place. I call my neighborhood PetCo—not quite Petworth, not quite Columbia Heights. And too gritty for the Crestwood folks across the park.

OH, DERBY! I might just stop yelping, as there’s much less reason to stray beyond my immediate neighborhood because of you.

Please note that all food and drink prices include tax. How sane, reasonable, and Euro.

FOOD: The sweet potato fries with a touch of cinnamon on top are, as others have mentioned, divine. The burger isn’t too exciting, but I’ve learned to order the grilled cheese, which has a fantastic blend of American and Boursin cheese on whole grain bread. Seven bucks, add a dollar for the sweet potato fries. YUM.

DRINKS: About 25 choices of canned beer, from Baltimore’s Natty Boh’s ($2) to Baltika ($6). Yes, canned beer can taste fine, or you can order a mixed drink or some wine if you’d like. Fun specials Sunday – Wednesday.

ENTERTAINMENT: Play pool in the back (a little drafty during winter) for just one dollar per game, take in the retro movie being projected silently on the wall, or give the bartender your Ipod and a 15 minute playlist and he’ll pump your tunes throughout the bar. Or better yet, talk to the person or persons next to you.

CLIENTELE: I was in the Red Derby just this past Sunday, early in the evening. In addition to Sascha, one of the owners, there were a middle-aged black man, a younger black man, a middle-aged middle-eastern man, an Asian man, two white women who seemed to be a couple, and a couple of white men who I would expect live in a group house in the neighborhood. Some were socializing, some weren’t. I was in the Red Derby a week ago and a white neighbor was teaching a black neighbor how to play backgammon. I was in the Red Derby a few weeks ago and it was filled with a group of nice boys and girls preparing to head down to the Black Cat. I was in Red Derby more than a month ago and dined next two two couples in their 50s. The Red Derby welcomes all.

OWNERS: Dave and Sascha, a fun young married couple, opened up a bar in Adams Morgan but had a bunch of hassles there. So they tried their luck on 14th Street instead, and I must say, the neighborhood suits them much better. There’s always one of them there, and they’re always making you feel like you belong. They’ve clearly forged alliances with other business owners as well, as I see them greeting the staff at other businesses and have heard them talking about the pool hall down the street and other establishments.

A little bit about the neighborhood, too, for those who need a primer: it’s diverse, but it is not mainly Hispanic. There are several large apartment buildings that are mainly Hispanic. There are also many townhouses that are majority African-American, with some white and some Hispanic occupants. Most townhomes are owner-occupied.

The Hispanic folks in my neighborhood seem to be more likely than the whites or the blacks to ride the bus. Many of my black neighbors drive to work, while many of my white neighbors walk to the Metro, having some unexplained aversion to taking the bus.

As a result, the Hispanic portion of my neighborhood is considerably more visible directly on 14th street and many of the neighborhood businesses are oriented towards this population. There are several Salvadorian sit down and take-out places nearby. There’s the Rib Pit for takeout. There’s a very nice small corner grocery store, one of the only in the city that refuses to sell lottery tickets and booze. You are welcome to patronize any of these establishments, no matter what your color.

I was really hoping that my first wonderful experience would not be soured by subsequent ones. I was really hoping that the warmth of the owners and the staff would not dissipate. I was really hoping that the city-dabblers that have taken over Wonderland on the weekends wouldn’t show up to twitter excitedly about how they’re “going to a ‘dive bar’ in the ghetto, tee hee!”

AND MY HOPES HAVE BEEN REALIZED.

The Red Derby “no sign thing”…it’s nice to be a little discreet sometimes.

Oh, and walking up 14th street from the Columbia Heights metro is well lit, well-populated, and just fine. You can also take any 52/53/54 bus up 14th street and get out at Spring and walk a block. Or, you can take the 16th street bus and get off at Spring and walk two blocks over to 14th street. Or better yet, use pedal power! there are bike racks for at least 8 bikes outside.

Red Derby, may you thrive and retain your character! I heart you.